Saturday, December 14, 2013

 
 
The Blanket Chest
 
 
The blanket chest is used in much the same way today as it was in early America.
Whether antique or reproduction, a blanket chest can be a useful addition to a bedroom.
Placed at the end of a bed, it can store blankets for added warmth on cold nights.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
The Blanket Chest
 
 
Blanket chests were very popular during the 17th thru 19th centuries. Over the years, drawers were added to the basic form, increasing the height, and gradually a different piece of furniture evolved called the mule chest. The drawers in a mule chest were used to store slippers called "mules" by the colonists.
The first colonists had no closets in which to store their clothing, blankets, and household linens. Attics were not readily accessible, and cellars were apt to be damp. Thus, the chest came into use.
In its simplest form, the chest was a large wooden box with a hinged lid. Although it functioned primarily as a receptacle for clothes and valuables, it also served as an additional seating place, for chairs were a luxury in most homes. Frequently chests were used for the storage of linens and things, especially those a bride brought to her husband. This is known as the dowry. From this evolved the name "hope" chest, now commonly used.
Early ships' records show the chests to have been the sole items of furniture accompanying many settlers. It is not surprising, therefore, that the chests built by seventeenth-century joiners in this country were copied from English pieces designed in the prevailing Jacobean style popular in London at that time. As early as 1660, craftsmen in Massachusetts and Connecticut were fashioning paneled and carved oak chests, constructed of wide stiles and rails. These had floating panels with elaborately carved intaglio decorations. Instead of a paneled top in the English fashion, the Colonial chest had a plain pine board top. This unadorned top surface was ideal for seating and did not need cushions thereby making it more functional.
In their crude fashion, these chests were the counterpart of the elaborate coffers, and caskets owned throughout Europe by wealthy families. Many households would not do without one of these blanket chests as few homes had a source of heat within the bedroom. On chilly nights it was convenient to merely go to the end of the bed and extract more bed covers to keep warm on those chilly nights. During warm seasons the blanket chest stored bed covers in a convenient location.
In colonial America blanket chests were constructed of various species of lumber ranging from inexpensive pines used for "country" type furniture to more expensive hardwoods such as walnut, cherry, and imported mahogany. The latter were used for more formal pieces of furniture that only the very wealthy could afford. Some of these chests were lined or constructed of pleasant smelling aromatic red cedar that repels insects. Pennsylvania Dutch chests were often hand painted with traditional decorative motifs.

The finish consists of six coats of hand-rubbed low luster tung oil finish, with a final coat of carnauba wax. The hardware consists of a high quality brass-plated, full-mortise chest lock, and friction scissor chest hinges that conveniently hold the top open.
This chest is certain to become a future antique, due to its traditional construction techniques, use of high quality materials, and timeless beauty.
 
 
Information taken from:  www.wwch.org
 


Friday, November 15, 2013

Thanksgiving

 

 

Thanksgiving

 

The arrival of the Pilgrims and Puritans brought new Thanksgiving traditions to the American scene. Today’s national Thanksgiving celebration is a blend of two traditions: the New England custom of rejoicing after a successful harvest, based on ancient English harvest festivals; and the Puritan Thanksgiving, a solemn religious observance combining prayer and feasting.

Florida, Texas, Maine and Virginia each declare itself the site of the First Thanksgiving and historical documents support the various claims. Spanish explorers and other English Colonists celebrated religious services of thanksgiving years before Mayflower arrived. However, few people knew about these events until the 20th century. They were isolated celebrations, forgotten long before the establishment of the American holiday, and they played no role in the evolution of Thanksgiving. But as James W. Baker states in his book, Thanksgiving: The Biography of an American Holiday, "despite disagreements over the details" the 3-day event in Plymouth in the fall of 1621 was "the historical birth of the American Thanksgiving holiday."

So how did the Pilgrims and Wampanoag come to be identified with the First Thanksgiving?


HARVEST HOME OR THANKSGIVING?
Pilgrim Colonists Hunting - Thanksgiving at Plymouth ColonyIn a letter from “E.W.” (Edward Winslow) to a friend in England, he says: “And God be praised, we had a good increase…. Our harvest being gotten in, our governor sent four men on fowling that so we might after a special manner rejoice together….” Winslow continues, “These things I thought good to let you understand… that you might on our behalf give God thanks who hath dealt so favourably with us.”
In 1622, without his approval, Winslow’s letter was printed in a pamphlet that historians commonly call Mourt’s Relation. This published description of the First Thanksgiving was lost during the Colonial period. It was rediscovered in Philadelphia around 1820. Antiquarian Alexander Young included the entire text in his Chronicles of the Pilgrim Fathers (1841). Reverend Young saw a similarity between his contemporary American Thanksgiving and the 1621 Harvest Feast. In the footnotes that accompanied Winslow’s letter, Young writes, “This was the first Thanksgiving, the harvest festival of New England. On this occasion they no doubt feasted on the wild turkey as well as venison.”

PURITAN HOLIDAY
The American Thanksgiving also has its origin in the faith practices of Puritan New England, where strict Calvinist doctrine sanctioned only the Sabbath, fast days and thanksgivings as religious holidays or “holy days.” To the Puritans, a true “thanksgiving” was a day of prayer and pious humiliation, thanking God for His special Providence. Auspicious events, such as the sudden ending of war, drought or pestilence, might inspire a thanksgiving proclamation. It was like having an extra Sabbath during the week. Fasts and thanksgivings never fell on a Sunday. In the early 1600s, they were not annual events. Simultaneously instituted in Plymouth, Connecticut and Massachusetts, Thanksgiving became a regular event by the middle of the 17th century and it was proclaimed each autumn by the individual Colonies.
Thanksgiving Dinner in the Civil WarW.S.L. Jewett, "A Thanksgiving Dinner Among Their Descendants," Harper's Weekly, 30 November 1867. Collection of Plimoth Plantation.
The holiday changed as the dogmatic Puritans of the 17th century evolved into the 18th century’s more cosmopolitan Yankees. By the 1700s, the emotional significance of the New England family united around a dinner table overshadowed the civil and religious importance of Thanksgiving. Carried by Yankee emigrants moving westward and the popular press, New England’s holiday traditions would spread to the rest of the nation.

NATIONAL FEAST
The Continental Congress proclaimed the first national Thanksgiving in 1777. A somber event, it specifically recommended “that servile labor and such recreations (although at other times innocent) may be unbecoming the purpose of this appointment [and should] be omitted on so solemn an occasion.”
Presidents Washington, Adams and Monroe proclaimed national Thanksgivings, but the custom fell out of use by 1815, after which the celebration of the holiday was limited to individual state observances. By the 1850s, almost every state and territory celebrated Thanksgiving.
Portrait of Sarah Josepha HaleSarah Josepha Hale (1788-1879). Many people felt that this family holiday should be a national celebration, especially Sarah Josepha Hale, the influential editor of the popular women’s magazine Godey’s Lady’s Book. In 1827, she began a campaign to reinstate the holiday after the model of the first Presidents. She publicly petitioned several Presidents to make it an annual event. Sarah Josepha Hale’s efforts finally succeeded in 1863, when she was able to convince President Lincoln that a national Thanksgiving might serve to unite a war-torn country. The President declared two national Thanksgivings that year, one for August 6 celebrating the victory at Gettysburg and a second for the last Thursday in November.
Neither Lincoln nor his successors, however, made the holiday a fixed annual event. A President still had to proclaim Thanksgiving each year, and the last Thursday in November became the customary date. In a controversial move, Franklin Delano Roosevelt lengthened the Christmas shopping season by declaring Thanksgiving for the next-to-the-last Thursday in November. Two years later, in 1941, Congress responded by permanently establishing the holiday as the fourth Thursday in the month. 
 

 
THE PILGRIM AND WAMPANOAG ROLE
The Pilgrims and the Wampanoag were not particularly identified with Thanksgiving until about 1900, though interest in the Pilgrims as historic figures began shortly before the American Revolution.
John and Prisicilla Alden Tableau, 1910Tableau of John and Priscilla Alden, 1910. Collection of Plimoth Plantation.
With the publication of Longfellow’s best-selling poem The Courtship of Miles Standish (1848) and the recovery of Governor Bradford’s lost manuscript Of Plimoth Plantation (1855), public interest in the Pilgrims and Wampanoag grew just as Thanksgiving became nationally important. Until the third quarter of the 19th century, music, literature and popular art concentrated on the Pilgrims’ landing at Plymouth Rock and their first encounters with Native People on Cape Cod.

After 1890, representations of the Pilgrims and the Wampanoag began to reflect a shift of interest to the 1621 harvest celebration. By the beginning of the 20th century, the Pilgrims and the Thanksgiving holiday were used to teach children about American freedom and how to be good citizens.

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Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Pottery in Your Primitive/Colonial Home

 
Pottery in Your Primitive/Colonial Home
 
 
 
Pottery can be a useful addition to your country/primitive/colonial home.  Placed in a kitchen they can be used to store vegetables such as potatoes and onions.  Sitting on a countertop they are useful for holding cooking utensils such as wooden spoons.  A collector of early pottery might display their collection on an antique or reproduction crock bench. 
 
While American potteries are still producing pottery today, "antique" crocks will add an early feeling to your home.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Pottery in Colonial America

 
Pottery In Colonial America
Understanding the types of pottery that have been made in or imported to America can be difficult to sort through. Below is a thumbnail sketch of the most common types of pottery found in America during the 17th and 18th centuries along with a very brief technical description of each which, hopefully, will prove useful to the reader. 
 The average New England household in the 17th century could contain an assortment of ceramics from Europe, the Mediterranean and the Orient. Trade up and down the Atlantic coast was taking place among the Dutch, English and Spanish. The inventories of early 17th century New England households in the Boston area have shown to contain Dutch and English delft, Italian, Spanish and Portuguese maiolica (or majolica), porcelain,  imported redware and locally manufactured redware.
EARTHENWARE: All clays which have a porosity above 5% when fired are considered earthenwares. What this means is that the ability of a fired clay to hold liquids without seepage occurring must be within 5% of being completely water tight (vitrified). Earthenwares can range from pure white to dark brown in color. The texture of the clays can be fine grained to coarse. Generally, earthenwares fire to lower temperatures than either stoneware or porcelain. Earthenwares cannot be made absolutely water tight because of their porosity although the application of glaze to the pot does help. Some glazes work better than others in preventing seepage.
Redware is a type of earthenware. What causes the red color is the amount of iron in the clay body. Other minerals can affect the color as well but iron is the major mineral to affect color. Redwares can range from light orange to dark brown in color and the clay body can be fine grained to coarse. Redware clay deposits occur close to the surface and can be used as they are after processing. The color of the clay as it comes out of the ground can very greatly from the finished pot. Often, redware clays in New England are grey in color until after firing at which time many of them range from bright orange to deep red-brown.
During the 17th and 18th centuries, locally produced redware was usually utilitarian and sometimes of poor quality. From the 1680s through the Revolutionary War potters were restricted by the British from making fancier  wares and could only make the more basic forms such as chamber pots, pans, butter pots and other common pieces found in the kitchen and pantry. These types of wares were not economical to ship from Europe and so local production was tolerated. Refined redwares, most stoneware and all porcelain and tin-glazed wares were imported into the American colonies until the end of the Revolutionary War.
 Another reason for the lack of local production of more refined ceramics is due to the fact that outside of urban areas, potters were frequently farmers or involved in another livelihood besides pottery. The farmer/potter would make pottery during the times of year when the demands of farming were low. They provided a necessary service to their communities by supplying much needed wares. Skilled potters who emigrated to America usually worked in the urban areas where more jobs were available. The rural American potter was often self taught or taught by other potters who never had the benefit of learning the trade in one of the large well organized European centers. 
  
STONEWARE: Clay which can be fired within 2% of total vitrification  or less are considered to be stoneware. Stoneware clays are usually made up of blended clay bodies to produce a malleable, strong clay which can be worked on the pottersÕ wheel and fired to a vitreous state. Color and texture of stoneware clays can vary quite a lot. Color can range from white to dark brown and texture can be smooth to coarse. Salt glazing is a process whereby sodium, most often in the form of coarse salt, is introduced into the kiln during the firing. A chemical reaction between the clay body and the salt forms the pebbly, clear glaze. Although technically salt-glazing can be performed on certain earthenwares and porcelains, this process is most commonly used on stoneware. From an historic viewpoint, it can be assumed that a salt-glazed pot is made of stoneware.
Stonewares were imported from Europe to the American Colonies until the end of the Revolutionary War. Germany and England were the largest producers and exporters of stoneware. Both countries were producing grey salt glaze with blue decoration. The English added manganese purple as a decoration by the 18th century. Both countries also produced brown salt glaze. The German bellarmine jug and the English stein are the most common forms of brown salt glazed stoneware produced for foreign markets. American production began in the mid 18th century and both imitated and competed with the European imports despite trade restrictions. Large scale manufacture did not occur until immediately after the Revolutionary War. The large centers in the North spread from New Jersey and New York into New England. The southern centers were concentrated in Philadelphia and eastern Pennsylvania. Over time, more potteries started and began spreading further south. The tradition of salt glaze and alkaline glaze stoneware continued there well into the mid 19th century.

Information taken in part from: www.JuliaSmith.com

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Thursday, September 12, 2013

Open Hearth Cooking

 
 
 
 
 
Open Hearth Cooking
 
In the 1700's and 1800's many women cooked over an open fire. The days were long and the work was hard.  The number one cause of death in women during this time was fire related.  A long skirt could easily catch fire near the open hearth. 

18th Century Open Hearth Cooking

 

 

18th Century Open Hearth Cooking

 

RECIPES FROM THE PAST

Below-to give you an idea of the kind of roasting techniques that were once popular-are some recipes taken from the 1805 edition of Hannah Glasse's Art of Cookery (which was easily the most popular cookbook in 18th-century America).

RULES TO BE OBSERVED IN ROASTING

In the first place, take great care that the spit be very clean; and be sure to clean it with nothing but sand and water. Wash it clean, and wipe it dry with a cloth; for oil, brick-dust, and such things, will spoil your meat.

TO ROAST A PIGEON

Take some parsley shred fine, a piece of butter as big as a walnut, a little pepper and salt; tie the neck end tight; tie a string round the legs and rump, and fasten the other end to the top of the chimney-piece. Baste them with butter, and when they are [done] enough [elsewhere, she specifies 20 minutes] lay them in the dish, and they will swim with gravy [the natural roasting juices].

A TURKEY

A middling turkey will take an hour; a very large one, an hour and a quarter; a small one three quarters of an hour. You must paper the breast till it is near done enough, then take the paper off and froth it up. Your fire must be very good.
I've found that cooking-type parchment paper is best for this recipe, although ordinary typing paper will do in a pinch. A thin piece of pork flare fat tied on will also do. Foil, however, gives the meat a steamy" taste.
You'll notice that Ms. Glasse places great stress on having a brisk fire and recommends rather short cooking times. (Most of the old writers, in fact, suggest a mere 45 minutes to roast a large chicken or capon.) This is a far cry from the methods advocated by the present breed of home economists, who have us "roasting" our turkeys for hours on end at 300°F.
Of course, meats used to be cooked much rarer than they are now. Amelia Simmons-in her 1796 book, American Cookery (the first cookbook written by an American)—says firmly with regard to the roasting of beef that "rare done is the healthiest and [is] the taste of this age". Indeed it was, for Ms. Glasse wrote that a 10-pound piece of beef would be roasted in an hour and a half "at a good fire" (longer, in ''frosty weather").



Thursday, August 22, 2013

The Folk Art Portrait

 
 
The Folk Art Portrait
 
In arranging an authentic or believable room in your primitive/country home, the primitive folk art portrait is a welcome addition.  There are many folk art portraits reproduced today, each adding their own "style" to your room.  I have included examples of several folk art portraits. 
 
             
 



 
 


The Folk Art Portrait

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The Folk Art Portrait
 

Primitive portraits were generally painted by itinerant artists who worked for food and lodging or who rented their facilities, staying in an area until all interested subjects had been painted before moving on. They occasionally advertised their services in newspapers, offering additional skills such as fancy, sign, and coach painting to broaden their potential for income. Some artists charged different rates depending on how much a sitter was willing to spend, which was reflected in whether the finished product had more or less realism and modeling. Some itinerant artists painted at a rate of two or three portraits per day, providing little opportunity to correct errors or attempt significant over-painting. Most of these artists did not sign their names. When they did, it was usually on the back of the canvas, with information about the sitter, location, or date. As a result, most attributions are based on rare signed examples, documents, or family histories.

 Primitive portraits usually show a linear format with flat facial features; a pose, frequently stiff, that is turned three-quarters or is fully frontal; minimal shadowing to indicate the direction of light; simplified versions of hands, ears, hair, and disproportionately sized heads; arms and legs extended from bodies in distorted directions; sometimes greater attention paid to details of clothing and backgrounds as compared to the face; backgrounds may be either plain and free of objects and scenery or, conversely, a fanciful rendition. Though artists had varying skills, with some having modest academic training, most primitive folk portraits exhibit some or all of the above characteristics. 
Primitive portrait painters occasionally used the same props in their images, "dressing" the sitters in the same outfits and reusing pieces of jewelry.

www.antiquesandfineart.com

 
 
 


Saturday, August 10, 2013

The Wingback Chair

The Wingback Chair
 
 
 
 
The wingback chair is an important piece for your country/primitive home.  The chair can be placed in a gathering room, as well as a bedroom.  Styles range from the primitive make-do wingback (such as the one pictured here) to the more formal traditional upholstered wingback.  There are many reproduction fabrics available for your wingback chair.  Choose a fabric that best suits the use of the chair and the style of your home.
 
 
 


History of the Wingback Chair

The Wingback Chair
 
Wing chairs are sometimes called fireside chairs, and for good reason. Their design is perfect for enjoying the warmth of a fire while your back and sides are protected from chilly drafts.
 
 
These chairs were not the earliest furniture to use this approach to keeping warm. Wings were also used on some of the high-backed wooden settles (benches) found in English manor houses and inns long before the new kind of upholstered chair brought an extra level of comfort to the late 17th century. We now know these as wing or wingback chairs.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


Friday, July 19, 2013

Rag Rugs

 
Rag Rugs
 
Another type of floor covering used during Colonial times was a rag rug.  This rug was woven by hand using strips of old clothing, blankets, etc. that were no longer able to be used for their original purpose.  This style of  rug is used frequently today in the country, primitive, or period home. 
 
 


History of Rag Rugs

History ofWeaving Rag Rugs


History of Rag Rugs

These rugs originated in England and Europe, and in New England they became a
favored choice. Rag rugs are produced in a plain, flat weave style. Rag rugs are woven
on hand or machine looms where the weft is made of strips of cloth. They can be a solid
color or a mix of many colors. Rag rugs may consist of irregular stripes in bright cheerful
colors.
American rag rugs were a specialty in Colonial New England on the frontier during the
westward U.S. expansion movement. Rag rugs were made in Europe and as a practical
and vernacular floor covering, came to America with the early immigrants, and passed
down through the generations, mostly produced by recycling worn clothing or other
textiles. In the 1900’s rug making traditions were dispersed and sometimes modified to
take advantage of the local availability of materials. Different techniques flourished in
different sections of the country with woolen rugs becoming well established in New
England due to proximity of the woolen mills. Where railroads provided economical
transportation, wool and cotton fabrics produced on the east coast were made available
for rug making in other areas of the expanding U.S.
Rag scraps were a product which, sooner or later, everyone in America possessed.
The scraps were comprised of worn out fabric from old clothing, bedding, and
household furnishings that was too small or worn to continue in its previous function.
Flax and wool were the most prevalent raw materials, depending on the region, for the
rag rugs in the 18th century. Each material requires much time to process. Flax needed

months to grow, dry, and spin the fibers. Wool needed to be sheared; carded, or wiretoothed
brushed, used to disentangle wool fibers prior to spinning; spun; and shipped
from England. These were precious materials that could not be wasted, not even burlap
sacks could be wasted; they were used in many of the bases of rag rugs. The material
was cut into strips and converted into a rag rug. Rag rugs provided a way for
every household to have a floor covering or carpet to provide protection from drafts or
keep the floor clean and protected.
The 19th-century heyday of rag rugs, has left very few examples as they were not
treated as heirlooms. A new rug was often made each winter and the old ones rotated
around the house, from hearthrug to kitchen to back door, with the old doormat either
 
thrown away or used outside to cover the potato clump or compost heap. Thus very few
survived.
 
The types of rag rugs are categorized by weave and style. The most common were
hand woven rugs.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Friday, July 5, 2013

Windsor Chairs

Windsor Chairs
 
 
Windsor chairs are an important addition to your primitive/country home to add an element of believability to your room.  A purest may prefer to find an antique Windsor chair, but there are many skilled craftspeople who create authentic-looking reproductions of the Windsor chairs and settles.  I have added a post on the History of the Windsor Chair if you would like further reading on them.
 
 
 


Windsor Chairs

                 
 
 
History of the Windsor Chair
 

A Windsor chair is a wood chair whose back and sides consist of multiple thin, turned spindles that are attached to a solid, sculpted seat; its straight legs splay outward and its back reclines slightly. It takes its name from the English town of Windsor, where it originated around 1710.
Legend has it that King George II, seeking shelter from a storm, arrived at a peasant cottage and was given a multi-spindled chair to sit on. Its comfort and simplicity impressed him so much he had his own furniture-maker copy it - and the Windsor vogue was born, according to the Treasury of American Design and Antiques by Clarence P. Hornung. By the 1730s, the chair had crossed the ocean and began appearing in Britain's American colonies. It was first crafted, probably, in Philadelphia, then throughout New England and other regions.
Yankee Ingenuity
If the Windsor chair developed in England, its form was perfected in America. Colonial craftsmen eliminated the central splat featured in the original chair's back. They also slenderized the splats and legs, and developed, for some models, the 'continuous arm' - that is, the chair arms and back rim are made of a single, bent piece of wood. These alterations simultaneously strengthened the chair while giving it a light, airy appearance - "a delicate balance and harmony," as Hornung puts it.
Windsors come in a variety of styles, including armchairs, side chairs, rockers, and - as many students of a certain age remember - writing chairs. There are even Windsor settees. The spindled backs come in several heights and shapes too, and Windsors are usually identified by that feature: "low back", "comb back", "bow back." But the best-known, the version that seems the quintessential Windsor, is the sack-back or hoop-back, usually an armchair with a semi-circular back. These are the ones that often appear in portraits of prominent colonial figures and, as the American Revolution approached, members of the Second Continental Congress. In fact, cabinetmaker Francis Trumble made more than a hundred of them for the Philadelphia State House in the 1770s where the Declaration of Independence was drafted.
Other Windsor Chair Characteristics:
  • Windsors were made of a combination of cheaper woods: hickory - an especially pliable wood for the spindles; pine for the seat; maple, ash or oak for other components.
  • To disguise the mixture of timber, they were painted; dark green, brown or black were colors of choice, but lighter dyes - reds, yellow and even white - were common, too.
  • The slightly sunken saddle seats are typically shield- or oval-shaped.
  • Legs are often connected with an H-stretcher. They can be simple or elaborately turned; some from the late 1700s/early 1800s are scored to resemble bamboo stalks (with correspondingly scored spindles).
  • Feet are a simple taper, or an arrow foot.
  • Arms typically terminate in paddle or knuckle shapes.

Prestige, Popularity and Prices
Windsors' popularity derived partly out of their association with the Founding Fathers - Thomas Jefferson, George Washington, John Adams and Benjamin Franklin all owned them - and partly because they were easy to manufacture. They may have been the first mass-produced style in the U.S. Beginning around the turn of the 19th century, furniture-makers began turning out separate components - spindles, legs, etc. Because the parts were interchangeable, they could easily be sold and shipped for assembly by local craftsmen around the country.
Furniture historians cite 1725 to 1860 as the golden age of the Windsor chair; after that, it began to seem old-fashioned and its dominance began to dwindle - along with its quality, as mass-manufactured models replaced handcrafted or hand-assembled examples.
But it's remained a staple in country furniture and enjoyed regular bouts of renewed interest, especially during the 1910s, as part of the Colonial Revival movement in furniture, and the 1980s, with the increased prestige of indigenous American arts and crafts. Today, authenticated 18th- and early 19th-century Windsor chairs can fetch prices in the four figures; those in mint condition, with their original paint, can easily bring five figures.
"In a good Windsor, lightness, strength, grace, durability and quaintness are all found in an irresistible blend," American furniture historian Wallace Nutting noted in A Windsor Handbook. The Windsor was, in a sense, the country's first chair: like the U.S. itself, an English prototype that developed in its own, unique direction.

http://antiques.about.com

Friday, June 28, 2013

July 4th

July 4th
 
As we approach July4th, it is a good time to appreciate the American flag and it's rich history.
 
 


History of The American Flag

History of the American Flag


According to popular legend, the first American flag was made by Betsy Ross, a Philadelphia seamstress who was acquainted with George Washington, leader of the Continental Army, and other influential Philadelphians. In May 1776, so the story goes, General Washington and two representatives from the Continental Congress visited Ross at her upholstery shop and showed her a rough design of the flag. Although Washington initially favored using a star with six points, Ross advocated for a five-pointed star, which could be cut with just one quick snip of the scissors, and the gentlemen were won over.
Unfortunately, historians have never been able to verify this charming version of events, although it is known that Ross made flags for the navy of Pennsylvania. The story of Washington's visit to the flagmaker became popular about the time of the country's first centennial, after William Canby, a grandson of Ross, told about her role in shaping U.S. history in a speech given at the Philadelphia Historical Society in March 1870.
What is known is that the first unofficial national flag, called the Grand Union Flag or the Continental Colours, was raised at the behest of General Washington near his headquarters outside Boston, Mass., on Jan. 1, 1776. The flag had 13 alternating red and white horizontal stripes and the British Union Flag (a predecessor of the Union Jack) in the canton. Another early flag had a rattlesnake and the motto “Don't Tread on Me.”
The first official national flag, also known as the Stars and Stripes, was approved by the Continental Congress on June 14, 1777. The blue canton contained 13 stars, representing the original 13 colonies, but the layout varied. Although nobody knows for sure who designed the flag, it may have been Continental Congress member Francis Hopkinson.
After Vermont and Kentucky were admitted to the Union in 1791 and 1792, respectively, two more stars and two more stripes were added in 1795. This 15-star, 15-stripe flag was the “star-spangled banner” that inspired lawyer Francis Scott Key to write the poem that later became the U.S. national anthem.
In 1818, after five more states had gained admittance, Congress passed legislation fixing the number of stripes at 13 and requiring that the number of stars equal the number of states. The last new star, bringing the total to 50, was added on July 4, 1960, after Hawaii became a state.


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Read more: History of the American Flag | Infoplease.com http://www.infoplease.com/ipa/A0875838.html#ixzz2XXCcwVCW

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Woven Coverlets

   Woven Coverlets


  Woven coverlets are used today in period, primitive and country decorated homes.  They add a believability to the period home, and warmth and charm to the primitive and country home.  Some use antique woven coverlets,  while others prefer the reproduction woven coverlets for the believability along with the practicality of machine washing. Both are charming additions to your country style.


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History of Woven Coverlets

History of Woven Coverlets
        Overview

The National Museum of the American Coverlet focuses on antique American woven coverlets. Dated coverlets in the collection range from 1771 to 1889.
Coverlets are woven bedcovers, used as the topmost covering on a bed. The weaver worked on a loom to construct the textile itself one row at a time, and the pattern was woven in as part of the process.
In comparison, quilts are often made by cutting and assembling pattern pieces, then sewing them to a backing with a filler material in between – much like a sandwich.
A quilt is generally assembled from pre-existing cloth.
A coverlet is made from scratch.
Woven coverlets were popular in many states during the early-to-mid nineteenth century (1800s).
Coverlets were woven by both men and women. The two main types are called geometric and figured and fancy.

The pattern motifs in geometrics are based on circles and squares.
Geometric coverlets were woven by both women and men. Women generally produced them for their own use at home, or for barter with a neighbor. However, since there wasn’t a loom (and all the related equipment) in every household, there were professional weavers as well – usually men – filling in the needs of the community.
 
 
 
 
The patterns in figured and fancy coverlets are curvilinear and realistic and can include floral, animal, architectural and other motifs. These are the coverlets that most often contain inscriptions. Inscriptions can include the weaver’s name, his location, the year it was made, the name of the person it was made for, and sometimes a slogan of some sort.



Figured and fancy coverlets were virtually all made by professional weavers – men. So when you see a woman’s name on a figured coverlet, it is the client/owner, not the weaver.
Coverlets were generally made of wool and cotton, although some are all wool. The wool was usually hand-spun and dyed with natural dyes. The cotton was most often machine-spun and left undyed. *
Unlike quilts, coverlets are reversible – intended to be used on either side.
That is why, when a coverlet has an inscription, it is almost always woven in backwards and forwards, to enable the observer to read it on both sides of the textile.
Because most looms were narrow, coverlets were often made of two woven panels joined with a center seam. Many geometric coverlets have two seams -- three panels joined. That is to say, the weaver had to weave the entire length of the coverlet twice, or three times, and hand sew them together next to each other in order to create a textile that was wide enough to cover the bed!
More Coming Soon....
Copyrighted Materials. Excerpted in part from

Coverlets at the Gilchrist
1771-1889
Exhibition Presented by Melinda and Laszlo Zongor
Cumberland, Maryland
June 5 – July 4, 2005

by Melinda Zongor

Saturday, June 1, 2013

The Floorcloth




The Floorcloth
 
The floorcloth could be compared to the linoleum in today's home.  In early America they were used just as area rugs would be used today.  For those with an early, period, or primitive home, the use of floor cloths add to the early feel of the home. Even a small floorcloth can add an early primitive look to a room. Place one in front of a sink, by a door, or under a table. 


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History of Floorcloths

History of Floorcloths

PAINTED FLOORCLOTHS:
An Historical Perspective
By Jeanne Gearin
Floorcloths are part of our American heritage. They are also called floor cloth carpets, painted canvas, oil cloths (oyle cloths), floor canvases, checquered canvas, grease cloths, crumbcloths (crumcloths) or druggets. The word “floorcloth” is often printed as one word, two words or hyphenated.
At least three of our presidents had floorcloths. George Washington purchased them for Mt. Vernon. When John Adams left the White House, there was a floorcloth listed in the inventory. Thomas Jefferson had at least two floorcloths in the Presidential Mansion — one in the small dining room “to secure a very handsome floor from grease and the scouring which that necessitates” and one in the great hall. These floorcloths were probably painted plain green according to the inventory. Jefferson also had painted canvases at Monticello.
Floorcloths were rather expensive. George Washington’s purchase of one in January 1796 cost $14.28. Because Thomas Jefferson considered the English floorcloths to be of better quality, he reluctantly paid about $3 a square yard for the above mentioned cloths. A 1746 inventory valued a painted floorcloth at 10 pounds and in 1827 Samuel Perkins and Son of Boston, Massachusetts, advertised “for sale a large and elegant assortment of painted floorcloths, without seams, some in imitation of Brussels carpet,” from $1.37 1/2 to $2.25 per square yard.
Advertisements indicate that floorcloths were widely used. Discounts of 10% were offered to merchants and builders purchasing in quantity. Advertisements in the 18th century also offer custom shapes, sizes, decor and colors.
William Burnet was governor of New York, New Jersey and then of Massachusetts. The inventory at his death in 1729 reported “two old checquered canvases to lay under a table: and a “large painted canvas square as the room.” In the South, the posthumous inventory of the effects of Robert “King” Carter, listed “one large oyle cloth to lay under a Table” and “one large floor oyle in the “Dining Room Clossett”. Robert Carter was called “King” because of his extensive land holdings in Virginia. Peter Faneuil, the wealthy Boston merchant, also owned floorcloths. Because they were so valued they were included in estate inventories and were also painted in the backgrounds of portraits done in the 18th century. Public auctions of household goods also often listed floorcloths.
Originally floorcloths were imported from England. The Factory of Smith and Baber of South Kensington, London, produced painted floor canvases prior to 1754. Nathan Smith, the founder of the above firm, first produced block printed cloths in 1754. His early cloths most likely consisted of only one color, but by the 19th century as many as five colors were not unusual. Historians believe they were adapted from the 14th century French wall and table coverings which were made in a similar manner.
Early cloths were produced by a method of stenciling similar to wall stenciling. As their popularity increased coach, sign, house painters and itinerant artists were designing and selling floorcloths. An advertisement in the Maryland Gazette of June 26, 1760, refers to a runaway indentured servant who could “paint Floor cloths as neat as any imported from Britain.” Apprentices to ornamental painters were often family members. In Boston, John Johnson and Daniel Rea, Jr. advertised until 1789 that they did floorcloths “in cubes, yellow and black diamonds, and turkey Fatchion.” Thomas Johnson, John’s father and Daniel’s father-in-law, was a well known ornamental painter working in Boston in the first half of the 18th century. According to their account books, they painted one-color cloths and fancy cloths with borders and even one “cloath with a Poosey-Cat and a Leetel Spannil.”
When home artists took up the practice of making floorcloths, some did so without adequate knowledge of the process and produced disasters. From various early accounts we find that craftsmen often ran into chemistry problems similar to those we experience today. Compatibility of materials, inadequate drying times, and improper bonding of paints regularly caused cracking. Even the imported English floorcloths, which were considered better than domestic ones, often arrived damaged due to shipping mishaps or inadequate drying.
In 1807 John Dorsey of Philadelphia had two looms on which he made carpets and floorcloths. He referred to his products as “floor coverings” and they were similar to those made in England. Other manufacturers and importers of floorcloths or oil cloths were listed in American directories in the 18th and 19th centuries, but little is known about their methods or production. However, in 1811 J. Harmer advertised in the New York Directory that his cloths were “wove in the same manner and of the same quality as it is at English Factories.” In 1817, New York Pattern Floor-cloth Manufactory, 35 Rivington Street, advertised in The New York Annual Advertiser “the greatest variety of the most approved patterns…of any size or form and less liable to crack than Floor-cloths imported from England”. They also advertised “Old Floor-Cloths re-ornamented in the best manner, on reasonable terms.” The illustration on this advertisement shows a large roll with a Greek key border and a small overall starred pattern, probably an imitation of a “Turkey carpet.” Terms are given for one, two, three, four or more colors.
The following historical method of making canvases was contained in The Illustrated Exhibitor and Art Magazine, published in 1852. The material used was made in Dundee, Scotland, of flax and hemp. They were woven on large looms which were constructed to accommodate the rolls which ran approximately 113 yards by 8 yards. This length (longer than a football field), was necessary to keep them from having to be seamed. Narrower widths for stairways and halls were cut from these rolls. After being folded into 3 foot square bales, weighing about 500 pounds, they were shipped to London.
The canvas was then stretched on large frames. These frames were in a room with 30 foot ceilings and over 90 feet in length called a “straining room.” Scaffolds were erected between the frames with just enough room for a man to stand and paint first the front of one canvas and turn around and paint the back of another. The canvas was first sized and sanded with pumice to a smooth surface. Extra heavy paint was troweled on, allowed to dry, pumiced again and built up to three coats. Drying time took two to three months. No dryers were used as they would cause the paint to crack. This large, cumbersome, heavily painted canvas was then rolled onto wooden rollers to prevent damage. It was then pulled into the printing room to be decorated. The rollers were fitted into iron sockets similar to a roller shade and gradually rolled out on the tables to be decorated.
An article in The Golden Cabinet in 1793 in Philadelphia describes a process similar to the English method. However, the addition of white lead to the paint was recommended to enhance drying.
The earliest cloth decorations imitated fine wood, marble, tile and fashionable Turkey carpets. They were also “tessellated.” In the 18th century geometrics were both plain and marbled. They were stenciled, painted freehand, and block printed. For authentic patterns refer to “Various Kinds of Floor Decorations Represented in Both Plano and Perspective,” the 1739 publication by John Carwitham of London.
Colors used were chromes, Prussian blue, azure blue, black, vermilion, malachite green and others. Yellow ochre was the most popular background color. The paints were mixed with linseed oil. Oil cloths received their name from the heavy amounts of linseed oil used in the paint.
In the 19th century quilt patterns became popular. As styles changed the English designer, Charles Eastlake, recommended simple geometric patterns in two colors or shades and definitely not imitations of marble or anything else which could be considered grandiose. His book printed in England and reprinted in 1872 in the United States, signaled a return to simplicity.
Floorcloths were used in summer when wool carpets were removed and as protective material under tables or in hallways. They were used also as insulation under carpets during cold weather. They waned in popularity in the 1850’s, and were relegated to the kitchen or hallways and were last referred to as oil cloths in the 1870’s.
Linoleum (originally a trademark) was invented in England in 1863 and subsequently manufactured in the United States. It became the floor covering of choice. An advertisement from a Sears Roebuck catalog recommends it as being “like oil cloth, but heavier, more durable and softer to walk on.”
In the middle of the 20th century, with the renewed interest of decorators in historic restoration, floorcloths became popular again. Articles have appeared in many home decoration and antique magazines concerning their history and traditional construction as well as modern methods of making them employing silk screens and water-based paints.
 

Thursday, May 9, 2013

A Bee Skep






Spring gardening books and magazines are arriving this time of year.  I thought it appropriate to research the bee skep (since so many photos from colonial and early gardens include at least one).  While I was researching, I stumbled across directions to make your own bee skep.  Something I will add to my list of projects.  My post on bee skeps has a brief history along with easy to follow instructions for making your own bee skep to add authenticity to your early garden. Enjoy!



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How to Make a Bee Skep

Bee Skep

Make a Bee Skep for Your Garden




 

Bee Skep Picture
Bees are not
indigenous to North America and the native Americans, never having seen them, called them "English flies." The first record of bee importation is in 1638, but most kitchen gardens included several "skeps" -- basketry beehives -- to provide honey for the household by the end of the 17th century.

Honey had myriad uses in colonial America: hams were cured and fruits were preserved in honey; and rinsings from honeycombs were used to make mead (an ancient fermented honey drink). Beeswax was almost as important a product of the skep as honey -- it was used to waterproof leather, to smooth thread for sewing, to bind wounds, as a precious ingredient in candles, and even as a type of early chewing gum.

The relationship between beekeeping and the herb garden is centuries old. Many herbs have a special attraction for bees and, since the insects pollinate the plants, the two work in unison. Lemon balm (its name is derived from the Greek word for “bee”) has long been a neighbor of the bee skep. Early beekeepers rubbed the insides of their skeps with it to attract bees, or mixed balm with honey to line the insides of skeps. Bee balm thyme and borage also attract honeybees.

In 1838, the Farmer's Guide reported that "Of all the substances of which hives are made . . . straw has been the most generally preferred." Straw beehives had been used for centuries by the time of this statement, and it is the dome-topped straw skep that is usually associated with early-American beekeeping. They were made in a variety of sizes. In the middle 1800's, a skepmaker named Wildman was weaving hives "seven inches in height and ten in width. The sides are upright so that the top and bottom are of the same diameter. A hive holds nearly a peck!''' Wildman's small skeps were dwarfed by surviving skeps from Pennsylvania that are two feet tall and a foot across. Some were two-piece; the bottom skep was the larger, with a small hole in its dome, and a smaller skep sat atop it. The queen was kept from the top skep with an excluder -- a physical barrier - that blocked her entrance but allowed the smaller drones to pass through. The drones would not remain, but only deposit honey, so the honey could be removed without killing the bees.

Bees entered and left the skeps by one of several means. Some had holes cut into the straw near the bottom as large as a single coil was thick. Others had no holes; they had to be lifted off the ground slightly and placed on boards to provide access for the bees through the open bottom. Still others had oak splints (thick pieces of oak, split out of a sapling or a branch) sewn to the base through drilled holes. Skeps sometimes had straw handles on top.

Bee Skep Picture
Beekeeping in colonial America was a simple procedure. A single skep was maintained throughout the winter. It was usually insulated and always kept under cover, and the bees were fed to sustain themselves throughout the cold months. In the early summer the beekeeper caught and skepped the swarms that issued from his winter hive. Natural reproduction would populate his other hives, and the inhabitants would produce honey in them all summer long. Then, in late summer, the owner killed the bees in most of his skeps by burning sulphur beneath them. He would then cut out the beeswax and harvest the honey.

Straw skeps had several disadvantages that caused them to be replaced by wooden hive boxes. First, the bees had to be killed to harvest the honey (The two-tiered straw hive alleviated this problem to some extent). If a beekeeper's winter hive died, he would have to find another swarm to start all over again the following summer. Second, the bees attached their comb to the walls of the skep. In some cases two oak rods were pushed through the skep walls so that they crossed inside about halfway up to provide a place for the bees to anchor the comb, but it still ended up stuck to the skep wall.

That is not to say, however, that a modern gardener may not use one of several reproduction skeps to add an authentic touch to a herb garden. Skeps are easy to create with materials gathered from the roadside, or purchased from a local farmer.

An authority on creating skeps, Rolla Chandler once talked about skep-making at a crafts festival in Waterford, Virginia. "I have used all sorts of grasses," he said, ”but I like rye straw best because the stalks are very long. You have to get the rye before the farmer threshes it; after it is threshed the grass is broken into short pieces and is worthless."

If you can find a local farmer who grows wheat, oats, rye, or barley, make arrangements to buy some of it before threshing begins. Otherwise, look for patches of tall grass in the wild. There is no rule of thumb as to how much grass is needed for one skep - that depends on the size of the skep and the diameter of the coils - but a bushel basket of grass should be enough to make a medium-sized skep. Small coils use less grass, but a skep of tiny coils takes longer to weave. A weaving material, called a binder, is also necessary to hold the coils together. Mr. Chandler uses everyday twine; split reed like that used for chair caning works just as well.

The only tools you need are a spray bottle full of water, scissors, a bucket of water if split reed is the binder choice, and a needle. Mr. Chandler’s needle was the blade from a letter opener, dull, with a hole in the nether end through which to thread the binder. If split reed is used for sewing, all you may need is an awl to open the space for the stiff reed to be poked through the coils, and no needle will be required. A funnel-like device is the final tool, through which the straw is pushed to shape the coils. A short section of horn is perfect, as is a hollow bone or anything else of that shape. It must be sturdy, for it will take a good deal of abuse. The small end determines the diameter of the coil. A one-inch coil is a good size, but there is no hard and fast rule.

Bee Skep Picture
STEP ONE: Dampen the straw with the spray bottle before starting and keep the pile of straw covered to prevent it from drying out. Gather a handful and clip off the seed heads. Then tamp it down so that the starting end is even. Insert this into the wide end of the horn. Add straw until the horn's small end is filled tight. Push this beginning coil into the horn until about three inches protrude. Now reach for the needle, already threaded with the binder. Reed binder should be soaked in warm water before it is used, but twine is ready right from the spool. Anchor the end of the binder in the coil arid wrap it several times around the three-inch length.

Bee Skep Picture
STEP TWO: Begin your skep at the top and work toward the bottom. Curve the three-inch coil around on itself as tightly as possible, keeping the binder tight so that the coil doesn't fall apart. When the coil overlaps, sewn it to the strand beneath it. Accomplish this by poking the needle through the top quarter of that strand, then looping the binder around the top coil and poking the needle again through the lower one. This single stitch is repeated again and again.
If you want your skep to have a handle, a loop of straw should be sewn on at this point.

STEP THREE: Skeps are generally dome-topped, so this must be taken into consideration from the very beginning. As the circle widens, make sure it takes on the: shape of a shallow bowl. When this bowl has reached the diameter planned for the finished skep, start coiling the sides straight down.

STEP FOUR: Eventually, the end of this first handful of straw will come, and as it does, simply trim the heads off more straw and poke it into the horn. Continue weaving around the circle, keeping the length of the stitches uniform. When the binder runs out, tie on a new one and, if you are using a needle, thread it through the hole and start looping and stitching as before.

Bee Skep Picture
STEP FIVE: Continue coiling and stitching until the finished height has been attained. Spray the straw pile as you go to keep it moist. Some skeps, Mr. Chandler's included, had entry and exit holes near the bottom. When the location for these holes is reached, cut off the coil and secure it by tying the binder tightly around the end. Then, as you did in the beginning, start with a fresh straw end, leaving the appropriate space for the bees to use. At the very end stop adding straw and let the final coil thin slowly, eventually~killing it into the bottom coil. Tie off the last binder end and the skep is finished.



Source: Adapted from an article by Ron Pilling
Found at www.colonialsense.com

Saturday, April 20, 2013

 

Pierced Tin Lanterns
 
While some think the original purpose of the pierced tin lantern was for light,
others now think they were used to carry a lit candle while walking ~
perhaps from the house to the barn.
Today pierced tin lanterns can provide the same in our primitive

 

History of Tinsmithing

  • Tinsmithing became common in England in the 1630s, but the large sheets of tin necessary for making household  items had to be imported from Hamburg. Early in the 1700s, long, thin sheets of tin were being produced in England, and England exported this tin to the American colonies.There were no tin deposits in colonial America, and the colonists were not allowed to import raw tin to run their own tin mills until after the American Revolution. By the early 1800s, because the United States could produce the tin themselves, tinsmithing became very popular and common. 

Tin-punched items were inexpensive during colonial times, much less expensive than silver or crockery. They were also more durable and required less maintenance. Silver items had to be regularly polished to maintain their sheen, but tin items were easy to care of. They were also lightweight, decorative and readily available from peddlers who traveled from village to village.

Read more: About Colonial Tin Punching | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/about_4568660_colonial-tin-punching.html#ixzz2R1GH0bwL